Heading Up the Mountain and a Change of Route

So our plans are set – we’re off at around midnight tonight for the upper reaches of K2. 

The team has also decided to switch from the Abruzzi Ridge to the South Face or South South East Spur.

The Abruzzi Ridge was first climbed on by the Duke of Abruzzi in 1909 (he only reached 6,000 meters) and was the route taken by the Italians who first reached the summit of K2 in 1954.  Of the 300 or so ascents of K2 to date, it accounts for well over 250.  It is the ‘normal’ route up the mountain, although there is no easy way up and the Abruzzi is still very technical and steep.

However the Abruzzi has two major drawbacks – an almost non-existent space for Camp 2 and rockfall lower on the route.  Given this year there are more climbers on K2 than last year the decision has been taken to switch routes as the South route is in good condition, which is rare.

This route we’re now taking is known as the ‘Cesen’ after the infamous Slovenian climber Tomo Cesen, who claimed to have climbed it in 1986.  However, there are serious doubts in the high altitude climbing community about whether this ascent took place (he was caught fibbing about a number of other climbs) and the first confirmed ascent of this route took place in 1994 by a Basque/Spanish team.  For some reason the ‘Cesen’ name stuck.

The route is steeper and more direct than the Abruzzi and rises straight up the South Face of towards the summit an hour from Base Camp.  The angle is between 55 degrees and 80 degrees, never less, and is mostly on snow and ice, with some mixed climbing.  It is a real climb and pretty unrelenting, with tiny ledges for tents and a ‘crane your neck’ view up the route.

The ‘Cesen’ route joins the Abruzzi Ridge at the ‘Shoulder’ at 8,000 meters.  After that it follows the same route on summit day, so the infamous ‘Bottleneck’ at 8,200 meters and ‘Traverse’ at 8,300 meters.  These famous landmarks are all waiting for us on the summit push, should we ever get there...

For now we’re packing and re-packing gear and will be turning in early given the midnight start up the mountain.  We’ll be away for 2 or 3 nights and will head directly to Camp 2 at 6,300 meters tomorrow where we will spend two nights.  Depending on how we feel there may be a foray higher towards Camp 3 at 7,000 meters.  We will be back at Base Camp to rest on either 10 or 11 July.  We will not be using supplementary oxygen.

I will be taking a Sat Phone with me and will be calling Alix when I can.